It’s early Sunday morning in Germany’s largest port city. At the weekly fish market, early risers stroll among produce stalls while fishmongers call out bargain prices in singsong tones. But inside the historic fish auction hall, it’s still Saturday night. The beer is flowing and a live band plays, soothing the clubbers who have wandered down from the gritty Reeperbahn, the nightclub strip where the Beatles played their first shows.
This is Hamburg, the “Gateway to the World,” where the maritime independent spirit has created a culture all its own. Here’s our guide for a great Hamburg getaway.
HafenCity and the Port
The largest urban development project in Europe is best known for its showcase structure, the Elbphilharmonie, a sparkling glass and metal concert hall and hotel perched atop an old brick warehouse. Ride the slow, curving 80-metre escalator up to the public plaza for an excellent view over the port.
Back down on earth, pop into the brand-new Discovery Dock Hamburg for a virtual reality experience of the harbour. Or, get a close-up view of the port in action on a boat tour or ferry ride from Landungsbrücken piers to Finkenwerder Island.
Historic City Centre
Hamburg’s historic centre is compact and perfect for strolling. Start at St. Michael’s church, where you’ll find five of Hamburg’s 320 organs, for a 20-minute service with organ music every day at noon.
Around the corner, on Krayenkamp, you’ll find the oldest houses in Hamburg, dating back to the seventeenth century. Much of Hamburg was destroyed by fire in 1842, but these former widows’ apartments in a charming narrow street offer a glimpse of city life in the seventeenth century.
Finally, visit the town hall, the seat of the parliament, the senate and the mayor, where you’ll find exhibitions in the lobby and a pub in the basement. Behind the hall is a fountain dedicated to Hygieia, the Greek goddess of health, a reminder of the city’s cholera epidemic of 1892. It’s a popular photo spot, and a good place to catch a glimpse of newlyweds in their finery.
When you’re hungry, head to Mutterland Cölln’s, Germany’s oldest oyster bar. Serving seafood since 1760, it has a typical merchant canteen layout with many small rooms perfect for making deals – in the eighteenth century or today.
Miniatur Wonderland
Fifteen years ago, two brothers set out to build the world’s largest model railway, and the tourism establishment thought they were crazy. Today, Miniatur Wonderland is the second-most popular paid attraction in Germany, welcoming 1.5 million visitors a year.
Kids and adults alike will marvel at the intricate reconstructions of major world cities, complete with tiny details that are easy to miss if you stroll by too fast. The lighting changes from day to night every 15 minutes, so you can experience the glow of the tiny Las Vegas Strip or the Paris rooftops, then watch planes take off by daylight at the 150-square-meter miniature airport.
The Reeperbahn
End your getaway with a visit to the Reeperbahn to walk in the footsteps of John, Paul, George and Ringo. At Beatles-Platz, you’ll find steel sculptures of the Fab Four. Just around the corner is the Indra Club, where the Beatles played their first international show in 1960, when George was just 17.
The Beatles were hired for that gig not because they were good, but because they were cheap. In fact, the shows were terrible, but the band learned how to be great here, living for six weeks behind the screen of a children’s cinema. John Lennon said, “I was born in Liverpool, but I grew up in Hamburg.” This is where it all began.