Category Archives: Amsterdam

amsterdam_travel_writer
I lived in Amsterdam from 2017 through 2020 and return to the city regularly. I love  exploring corners of the city most tourists never see, and I continue to share the stories of those places with a worldwide English-speaking audience.

My Amsterdam travel writing has appeared in National Geographic, easyJet Traveller, Time Out, Preferred Travel, BA High Life, Tripadvisor, Are We Europe, the G Adventures blog,  Ensemble Vacations publications, and Make Change.

For Tripadvisor: Navigating Amsterdam’s museums like a pro

Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Vermeer. Amsterdam is home to so many famous artists it’s hard to name them all, let alone see all of their masterpieces in just one trip. Beyond the big-hitters, there are a handful of smaller museums and hidden gems, too. When I lived here, some of my favorites—the ones that I returned to again and again—were located outside the hubbub of Museumplein.

The city has a mind-boggling amount of art: 75 museums and galleries, some of which sell out of tickets weeks in advance. So, I don’t blame you if you feel overwhelmed. To help parse through Amsterdam’s iconic collections and can’t-miss exhibits, I’ve created the ultimate museum guide with a few insider tips as well.

If you want to hit the big ones

Rijksmuseum 

If you only visit one museum in Amsterdam, this should be it. Rijksmuseum has an extensive collection of more than 8,000 works, spanning centuries of Dutch history, from the Middle Ages to today.

The showstoppers are undoubtedly the Dutch masters. The Night Watch, Rembrandt’s largest painting, is currently being studied and painstakingly restored in plain view. It’s equally interesting to watch the researchers with their high-tech tools as it is to see the 400-year-old portrait itself.

My favorite place in the museum is Cuypers Library, with its arched skylight and thousands of rare books. Get a good look from the balcony on the second floor. For families with kids in tow, check out Petronella Oortman’s extravagant doll houses or the scale models of navy ships.

Tip: For those short on time, book the guided Best of the Rijksmuseum tour to hit the highlights in an hour. If you’re really in a crunch (or just have a quick layover), go to the free mini-outpost of the Rijksmuseum at Schiphol Airport, which has a rotating selection of about a dozen paintings.

Exhaustion level: 9/10

Van Gogh Museum

Van Gogh may not have been appreciated in his lifetime, but his art now draws 2.2 million fans every year. The permanent collection includes more than 200 of Van Gogh’s paintings, including Sunflowers, Almond Blossom, and The Potato Eaters. You’ll also find 500 drawings, along with most of the letters Van Gogh wrote, giving painful insight into the artist’s difficult life.

Though you could zip through this museum in roughly 90 minutes, I recommend saving a few hours just in case. The audio guide and signage do not shy away from his mental illness and financial struggles, so things can get a bit heavy, but you’ll come away with a deeper understanding of the artist and his process.

Tip: The Van Gogh Museum is right between Stedelijk and Moco, so make the most of your day by booking an early timeslot here and tackling one (or both) of the other museums after.

Exhaustion level: 6/10

If you’re into modern art

Stedelijk Museum

I love this contemporary art museum because there are rarely large crowds—so it’s easier to take my time and really admire the pieces that interest me most. The collection is divided into three chronological sections, displaying works by Picasso, Piet Mondrian, and Yayoi Kusama, among others. My favorite part is how the curators play creatives off each other. In one gallery, a Jeff Koons sculpture (for which he was accused of appropriating from a female artist) is paired with feminist works to explore the higher value often placed on art created by men. Elsewhere, industrial design objects like chairs and lamps appear alongside paintings of the same period to showcase how fine art and popular culture evolve together.

Tip: Don’t forget to download the free self-guided Essential Tour on your phone. And make sure to take in the quirky architecture as well. From the outside, the museum’s newest wing really does look like a giant bathtub.

Exhaustion level: 3/10

Moco

I’ll cut to the chase: Banksy is the biggest draw here. The highly secretive street artist and political activist never confirms (nor denies) the legitimacy of the murals. But, all the infamous pieces at Moco—including Girl with Balloon and Flower Thrower—do have certificates of authenticity from Pest Control, the body that verifies Banksy’s work.

Even if Banksy’s controversial illustrations aren’t your thing, Moco’s permanent collection is still impressive. This small museum features some of the most important names in modern and contemporary art. We’re talking Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Damien Hurst, and Keith Haring, all housed in a classic villa.

Tip: If you’re near Moco (especially on a sunny day), stop in its sculpture garden. The art is completely free—no admission ticket needed.

Exhaustion level: 1/10

If you’re a history buff

Anne Frank House

Amsterdam is practically synonymous with Anne Frank. Though it’s not a traditional museum, this preserved home is very moving. You’ll walk through the events of WWII, following in the footsteps of the Frank family. Behind the bookcase, you’ll explore the secret annex where Anne and seven other Jews hid from the Nazis for more than two years before being discovered.

We all know Anne from her writing, but actually being in her room and reading the real diary brings her experience to life. This one is powerful, but it packs a hard punch. Plan your day accordingly.

Tip: I can’t stress this enough—you must book far in advance. Tickets go on sale every Tuesday for six weeks out. Don’t skip the audio tour, either, as it provides important context about the occupation in the Netherlands.

Exhaustion level (emotionally): 10/10

Wereldmuseum

This thought-provoking ethnographic museum houses a collection of cultural objects from former Dutch territories, including India, Taiwan, and Guyana. Colonialism is a central theme, not as something that happened in the past but as a force that continues to shape the world today. Recent exhibitions have highlighted the impact of colonialism in global finance and climate change. Beyond this, curators and art historians are actively sorting through the archives to identify and repatriate culturally important objects taken during the colonial era.

Exhaustion level: 5/10

If you want a unique experience

Our Lord in the Attic Museum

Whenever I had friends come to Amsterdam, I always took them to this hidden gem. The 17th-century canal house has grand living spaces (the kitchen is covered in beautiful blue-and-white Delft tile) and period furniture like tiny box beds.

But the real attraction is the large church in the attic, complete with a pipe organ and an elaborate altar. Catholic worshippers would gather here when mass was banned, and secret churches were the only safe space. This one is ornate—and, surprisingly, very pink.

Tip: Since this is a historic canal house, you’ll have to deal with Dutch stairs. They’re steep and narrow, so climbing up might not be easy for everyone.

Exhaustion level: 2/10

See the most current version on the Tripadvisor website

For National Geographic: The essential guide to visiting Amsterdam

Here’s everything you need to know about exploring this Venice of the North—when to go, where to stay, what to do, and how to get around.

Best time to visit Amsterdam

Spring: Wisteria explodes into bloom and nearby tulip fields burst into colors visible from space. Don’t miss the 24-hour celebration of King’s Day. The fun begins on April 26, the night before King Willem-Alexander’s birthday, with evening street parties in every neighborhood. On the 27th, families sell trinkets and toys in a city-wide flea market before carousing in boats and bars with hundreds of thousands of visitors in orange outfits and inflatable crowns. 

Read the rest on the National Geographic website

For Going: Kapsalon: A Delicious Cultural Collision Rooted in Rotterdam

When I moved to Amsterdam in 2018, I enrolled in Dutch classes and began mentally translating every word of Dutch I saw, from street signs to menus to the aisles at grocery stores. The language sometimes baffled me. I was particularly perplexed when I started noticing the word “kapsalon” on the menu boards of shawarma shops around town. I was sure kapsalon meant hair salon. Was this a looming snack stand–barbershop collaboration trend?

Read the rest on the Going website

For Time Out: The 12 best art galleries and museums in Amsterdam

The Dutch certainly know what they are doing when it comes to creating and displaying art. Amsterdam is a veritable treasure trove of artistic pleasure, and the city’s museums and galleries are teeming with historic pieces and future classics. Whether you’re looking for the best of the best from the Dutch Masters or your new favourite painter, you’re going to find it in Amsterdam.

Undoubtedly one of the great European destinations, Amsterdam’s roster of art museums and galleries may well be its strongest suit. Sure, the city has a nightlife that attracts revellers from all over the world, it has charming cafes and curious coffeeshops, innovative restaurants and a famous central district, but the cream of the crop? That’ll be these spots. Check out our pick of the best art museums and galleries in Amsterdam right now.

Read the rest at TimeOut.com

For Time Out Amsterdam: The 12 best cafés in Amsterdam

In many ways, modern travel is at its most vibrant in the cafe of a city, and Amsterdam is no different. Everyday life overflows here, as old friends catch up while young creatives furiously work away in the corner, with plenty of fantastic coffee and cakes to be enjoyed along the way. To be clear, if you want a coffee or a light meal in Amsterdam, then a coffeeshop is not the place to stop. Despite the name, those joints serve cannabis (yes, pun intended); you’re after a koffiehuis (or cafe).

Amsterdam’s centuries-old cafe and restaurant culture deserves celebrating, and what better way to pay homage than by nipping in for a hot cup of coffee and a delightfully massive cake? These are the best cafes in Amsterdam. Expect plenty of gorgeous canalside views, you lucky thing.

Read the rest at TimeOut.com

For Time Out: The 12 best bars in Amsterdam

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night out in Amsterdam is one of the world’s great travel experiences. Not convinced? Visitors to this famous city have been stopping for a drink or three since the 1600s when sailors and traders alike exchanged tales over tipples before going their separate ways. The Dutch capital’s sightseeing options are among the best on the continent, but the best bars in Amsterdam keep the fun going late into the night.

Amsterdam’s eclectic soul shines brightest in its bars, where the traditional taverns of yesteryear sidle up to sleek lounges, hyper-stylish cocktail bars and craft breweries that continue this city’s proud history of revolution and innovation. You don’t need too much of a reason to stop for a drink in Amsterdam, and these bars should be high on your must-see list.

Read the rest at TimeOut Amsterdam 

For Time Out: Contribution to the world’s best rooftop bars

8. SkyLounge Amsterdam, Amsterdam

The view Amsterdam is an unusually flat city, so you don’t need to get up high to be above it all. From the 11th floor, SkyLounge offers unparalleled up-close views of the Basilica of Saint Nicholas and Amsterdam’s iconic canal houses, with sightlines stretching all the way out to Schiphol airport.

The vibe Perched on top of the DoubleTree by Hilton Amsterdam Centraal Station hotel, this breezy rooftop is usually buzzing with locals, expats and tourists alike bobbing their heads to the DJ’s tracks while planning out a weekend’s worth of mischief.

The drinks When you think Amsterdam, you naturally think tropical cocktails. No? Well, they’re in high demand here, though those with more refined tastes can always opt for something based on champagne or gin instead.

Don’t miss Sunset, when the city glows with that unbeatable Dutch light. Just remember that the golden hour ranges from 4pm in December to 10pm in June. Christina Newberry

 

For easyJet Traveller: The best restaurants in Amsterdam

 

Wilde Zwijnen

This comfortable restaurant in Amsterdam East has staying power in a neighbourhood that’s been changing at breakneck speed. An early adopter of Modern Dutch cuisine, which champions local ingredients and humble vegetables, Wild Zwijnen serves four- or five-course seasonal menus in a welcoming room where guests who book ahead (always a good idea) will find their names written in chalk on their rustic wooden tables. Their next-door sister venue, Eetbar, offers more casual à la carte options and a delightful long bar. Standout dishes include the oft-changing ravioli and anything featuring Jerusalem artichoke.

Javaplein 25, Indische Buurt
wildezwijnenwinkel.nl

BAK Restaurant

Housed in the top floor of a warehouse in Amsterdam’s old timber port, BAK started out in 2013 as a pop-up passion project for the chef known as Benny Blisto (yep, he’s so famous he has a stage name) along with sommelier Alessandro da Fies and their partner Piet Sanders. It’s since matured into a top-notch fine-dining restaurant with a daily changing chef’s menu, featuring ultra-local vegetables, fish, and accents of wild game. The award-winning wine cellar features more than 500 bottles from Italy and France, with perfect pairings for each dish. The coveted window tables have panoramic waterfront views, but you’ll enjoy your meal here no matter where you sit.

Van Diemenstraat 408, Houthavens
bakrestaurant.nl

Choux

The bright red exterior, polished concrete floors and gleaming tiled walls set the stage for a stylish meal at this trendy vegetarian-friendly restaurant tucked behind Centraal Station. The three- to five-course menus feature surprising plant-based ingredients – think wild rose pickle or toasted hay – but these flavours are no gimmick in the hands of chef Merijn van Berlo. The menu lists the four main components of each dish without elaboration (a recent example: ‘pea, redcurrant, yogurt, nasturtium’), and the chef brings them to life in unexpected ways. The camera often gets the first bite at Choux, as it’s hard to resist snapping these painterly dishes.

De Ruijterkade 128, Centrum
choux.nl

Cafe Rijsel

Rijsel’s airy space and schoolroom chairs offer no hint of the deeply comforting French and Flemish richness you’ll find on the menu. When you’re in the mood for rotisserie chicken or côte de boeuf, this is the place to be. Fancy a fine French wine to elevate your meal? There are dozens of options served by the glass and an extensive bottle list that’s regularly updated. This is simple, always satisfying food with friendly service and reasonable prices. The only challenge? It’s so popular that getting a table can be tricky. Book ahead to ensure you don’t go hungry.

Marcusstraat 52, Weesperzijde
rijsel.com

De Kas

Opened in 2001, De Kas was at the forefront of the farm-to-table movement. The restaurant itself is housed in a 1920s greenhouse that features an extensive indoor growing area, supplemented by a large garden outside. It doesn’t get more local than the grown-on-site ingredients that shine in dishes like tomatoes with lemon sorbet and cucumber flowers, which you can sample in weekly changing set menus. Vegetables are the stars of the show here, and the meat-free menus are tasty enough for carnivores to savour, but there are also options that include meat and fish for those who won’t dare go a night without.

Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3, Watergrafsmeer
restaurantdekas.com

Foer

If you know the Dutch spelling of ‘forage’ is foerageren, then you can probably guess what this lovely restaurant is famous for. Yes, a large portion of the ingredients here are foraged, and the rest are supplied from local farms. Bi-monthly changing five- or seven-course menus are served either entirely without meat or with a couple of carnivorous options, and feature plenty of house-fermented ingredients like miso, sauerkraut and pickled fruits. Wood-fire cooking is embraced here, too, with an open kitchen serving as the focal point of the dining room. This is a top-spot for non-drinkers: while excellent wine pairings are available, there’s also a low- or no-alcohol option with house-made juices, kombucha, kefir, and kvass (a traditional Slavic fermented bev).

Cruquiusweg 9, Oostelijke Eilanden
foeramsterdam.nl

Restaurant Blauw

The Dutch colonial presence in Indonesia spawned some tasty fusion dishes. Take rijsttafel (literally, ‘rice table’ in Dutch), a seemingly endless sharable meal featuring small servings of spicy and savoury satay, meat, fish, and vegetable dishes and, of course, rice. In Blauw’s modern, high-ceilinged dining room, trendy meets traditional as chef Titi Waber uses techniques learned from her grandmother to make beautifully presented rijsttafels and à la carte dishes like gulai domba (braised lamb curry) and ayam pop gulai padang (marinated chicken leg). Rijsttafels require a minimum of two guests, and unless you absolutely cannot stand to share, they’re the way to go.

Amstelveenseweg 158-160, Oud-Zuid
restaurantblauw.nl

Dignita Hoftuin

For breakfast or (all-day) brunch, you can’t beat Dignita Hoftuin, hidden in a charming garden behind the Hermitage museum. Standout dishes include the ‘Benny Boy’ benedict – choose bacon, salmon or avocado – served with apple cider hollandaise and crispy hash browns, or the zucchini and chickpea fritters with halloumi. The dining room features floor-to-ceiling glass windows, so you feel you’re in the garden whether you dine inside or out. And the karma here is excellent: Dignita Hoftuin (and its sister locations in Vondelpark and Westerpark) provide apprenticeship opportunities for victims of human trafficking.

Nieuwe Herengracht 18a, Weesperbuurt
eatwelldogood.nl

Virtù

This darling Italian restaurant on the Czaar Peter shopping street is run by a trio of young Italians who have made Amsterdam their home. They’ve poured their love for top-notch food and wine into this place, and it’s evident from the moment you arrive in their tiny dining room (or settle into their mini-terrace on the pavement out front) that they’ll treat you with care. The house-made pastas here are reliably excellent (think cannelloni with mint, potatoes, ricotta, and caprino cheese), but the showstoppers are the little touches – like a chicken liver pâté bonbon amuse-bouche, based on a classic Tuscan recipe and offered in between courses.

Czaar Peterstraat 106, Czaar Peterbuurt
virtu.amsterdam

Oedipus Brewing Taproom

Sometimes you just want a really good beer and a really good burger. When the urge hits, Oedipus Brewing Taproom in Amsterdam Noord is the place to go. The colourful warehouse is the HQ for this craft beer brand, started by four buddies who wanted to experiment with flavours not often found in Dutch beers. Their best-known brew is the ‘Mannenliefde’ – a saison with lemongrass and Szechuan pepper – but there are 11 staple beers to choose from. Roving burger-makers The Beef Chief have their own stall at the Taproom to serve up some of the city’s best patties and buns, from beef to pork belly and vegetarian options like halloumi or shitake.

Gedempt Hamerkanaal 85, Noord
oedipus.com

Foodhallen

Launched in 2014 as the Netherlands’ first food hall, Foodhallen is still undoubtedly one of the best places to have a meal in Amsterdam, bringing together 21 stands serving up everything from dim sum to tacos and Dutch meatballs. Housed in a former tram depot, this is a great spot to grab a table no matter what you want to eat (or drink: there are four bars to choose from, too). If you’ve got commitment issues, you could easily make a day of tasting your way around the vast industrial space. Just don’t forget where you left your friends – when we say it’s vast, we mean it.

Bellamyplein 51, Oud-West
foodhallen.nl

Moeders

Old-school Dutch comfort food stands in stark contrast to the fresher leanings of modern Dutch cuisines – think cabbage galore, potatoes and meat. These days, you’re more likely to find traditional fodder in home kitchens than in restaurants, but Moeders is a noteworthy exception. The mishmash aesthetic is a collaborative effort: on opening day back in 1990, every guest was asked to bring their own dinnerware, and the pieces gifted by punters are still in use today. If you don’t speak Dutch, you’ll be able to clock what moeders means relatively quickly once you spot the photos of guests’ mothers plastering every inch of the walls – even in the loo. To sample a collection of Dutch classics, order the ‘Dutch Ricedish’ which, strangely, involves no rice but does feature plenty of hearty veg, meat and spuds.

Rozengracht 251, Jordaan
moeders.com

Alex + Pinard

Small but perfect, this spot has the wine bar trifecta: great food, friendly staff and an extensive selection of grapes by the bottle or the glass. The menu leans towards simple and Italian – try the signature dish of pappardelle and pork ragù – but the seasonal selection also features dishes like spicy fried chicken or sweet potato and oyster mushroom tacos. It sounds like a strange mix, but somehow it all works. If you can’t decide, just ask for the meat or vegetarian dish of the day and a glass of the house wine – you won’t be disappointed.

Dapperstraat 10, Dapperbuurt
alexpinard.nl

Mediamatic ETEN

Grab your closest confidantes for a fresh and colourful vegan four-course meal in a waterfront greenhouse built for two or four. Your bubble is only popped in Mediamatic ETEN’s private glass rooms when a server comes with the next dish, making this an excellent choice for a more – ahem – intimate engagement. This could all feel gimmicky – and in truth, it is a tad – but the food holds its own, and the concept makes for an undeniably fun night out. Tickets for the ‘Serres Séparées’ (as they’re called) are sold in advance at €95 for two for the set menu, with an optional wine or non-alcoholic drink pairing available when you arrive. But if this all just sounds a bit much, you can opt for a run-of-the-mill reservation in the dining room.

Dijkspark 6a, Oosterdok
mediamatic.net

Wils

Wils is an incendiary meeting of minds between chefs Erwin Oudijk, Friso van Amerongen, and Joris Bijdendijk (previously of Michelin-starred RIJKS). Wood fire is the primary cooking method here, and it’s on full display in fire pits, woodstoves, and bread ovens in an open kitchen that runs the length of the room. Dishes on the six-course tasting menu feature creative flavour combinations like squash with almonds, sage and orange, or quail with red chicory, apple and onion, all with the characteristic smoky flavour that comes from cooking over wood flame. Much of the seating runs along work counters where the chefs busy themselves, giving diners a front-row seat to this exciting kitchen theatre.

Stadionplein 26, Stadionbuurt
restaurantwils.nl

For Time Out’s list of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods 2020: Amsterdam-Noord

In the buzzing borough of Amsterdam-Noord, shipyards have become cultural playgrounds and wide-open spaces beckon young families, artists, brewers and entrepreneurs. Hop on the free ferry from Centraal Station, in the opposite direction to most international visitors, to reach NDSM Wharf: the centre of Amsterdam's street art scene and home to Europe's largest monthly flea market at IJ-Hallen (these days with increased stall spacing and one-way route markers).

On this side of the River IJ, Noord's young creatives have built a flourishing community of multi-concept businesses, like the cinema-slash-waterfront restaurant at FC Hyena (now with added drive-in theatre), SkateCafe – where you can take a break from the half-pipe for a meal and a glass of natural wine – and the urban beach at Pllek, with its airy organic restaurant built from old shipping containers.

The angular Eye Filmmuseum, Noord's most iconic modern building, lies just a short bike ride from traditional villages lined with gabled wooden homes. Then, for a dose of adrenalin (plus an awesome view of the entire neighbourhood and the rest of Amsterdam beyond), brave Europe's highest swing, perched atop A'DAM Tower.—Christina Newberry