Lying on stacked cushions on the roof of a lodge in Jordan's Dana Biosphere Reserve, I watch a beam of green light shoot into the sky as our guide circles a constellation with the most powerful laser pointer I've ever seen. "That orange star, that's the womanizer,” Ali says. "He's always chasing the seven sisters.”

This is the Arab legend of the triangle in the east, Ali tells us: the seven sisters, the womanizer, and the bodyguard, forever chasing each other across the night sky.

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